Hiking England’s Remote Coastline

July 23, 2024

Photo By John Fison

Think of a holiday in England, and you are likely to imagine Big Ben, the Tower of London, gentle green hills and quaint villages, but the coast – with its dubious weather and gaudy games arcades – rarely features in top places to visit. But, if you love hiking, you need to put England’s South West Coast Path on your bucket list right this second. The trail is the longest marked path in the country, and runs 630 miles (1014km) from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset – clinging to Heritage Coasts, passing through Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and meandering past Bronze-age burial sites, castles, churches and farmland. It has been used over the centuries by smugglers, fishermen and coastguards, and offers the ultimate vantage point to take in the breathtaking coastline. Known as a walkers’ paradise, it is also a popular destination for film makers. Doc Martin, The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Society, Rebecca and House of Dragons are just a few of the productions filmed here.

The full trail takes weeks to complete, but even with limited time (and a car), there are plenty of options for sampling this incredible area. The tough part is choosing which places to visit. With four days to fill, we chose a handful of day walks in North Devon and nearby Cornwall – starting at Hartley Quay, famous for its stunning rock formations, and moving on to Tintagel, home of the legendary King Arthur. It was June, the sun was out, the wildflowers were blooming, and the coastline was every bit the star of the show.

Hartland Peninsula, North Devon

With compressed sedimentary layers soaring above the Atlantic Ocean, waterfalls, and a 16th century quay, this remote stretch of North Devon coastline has to be one of the most spectacular vistas in the entire country. We stayed two days at Hartland Quay, which was originally built to ship lime, slate and coal from across the Bristol channel. By 1896 the pier had fallen into disrepair, but a slipway was rebuilt in the 70s, and provides access for small boats and enthusiastic swimmers. The hotel and pub, overlooking the quay, date back to the 19th century. With fabulous views, great food and very tasty local cider, this is an ideal base for exploring the region. We spent two nights here – walking south towards Spekes Mill waterfall on our first afternoon, then doing a longer walk the following day to Hartland Point. The scenery could not have been more impressive.

Tintagel, Cornwall

This rocky outcrop on the Cornish coastline has a special place in British history. It was the stronghold of Cornish kings from the 5 th to the 7th century. Legend has it that King Arthur was conceived here with the help of Merlin. In 1230, inspired by the myths, Richard, Earl of Cornwall, built a castle here. Very little of the castle is left, but the remains are perched on a cliff top and an adjacent island. The setting is absolutely spectacular.

It is possible to walk along the South West Coast Path from Hartland Quay to Tintagel, over several days, but we cut out a few miles by driving to the impossibly pretty coastal village of Boscastle, and walking to Tintagel from there. This was a full day walk, and meant we had to get a taxi back to Boscastle to collect the car, but it was totally worth the effort. The cliff-top trail passes ancient settlements, slates fences, fields of wildflowers, and incredible rock formations. It’s another unmissable section of the South West Coast Path.

By the time we arrived at Tintagel the sea mist was closing in, which seemed appropriate for an area steeped in folklore. The village itself is very touristy, but the surrounding landscape is magical. We stayed at the Old Malthouse Inn – a 14 th century establishment with an authentic feel, great food, very low ceilings and lots of ghost sightings. From here, we explored the castle area and the 11 th century church of St Materiana, as well as the beautiful seaside village of Port Isaac (made famous by Doc Martin). We ventured to Padstow for lunch at one of the many Rick Stein eateries, and while the food was good, the town was packed with tourists. Then it rained. I was very happy to leave busy Padstow. But I will definitely be back to hike more of the South West Coast Path.

Julie Fison is a Brisbane author and travel lover. Her debut novel for adults, One Punch, is a compelling contemporary drama that tells the story of two mothers facing impossible decisions after one life-changing night. When not at her desk, you can find Julie hiking a bush trail with her energetic border collie, exploring the outback, or chasing the perfect sunset. She is a committed traveller and enjoys sharing tips for midlife adventure.

www.juliefison.com

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