Brisbane is a long way from Paris, but with my trusty iPad in hand sitting in my comfy Peter Alexanders I was able to stream the Dior Spring – Summer 2018 Haute Couture Fashion show. This gave me a front row seat, along with the likes of Naomi Campbell, to see what we can look forward to next from this iconic brand. I was delighted to see the venue was the Musee Rodin – one of my favourite places to while away a few hours in Paris.
The scene was decorated in sombre black and white, playing with a checkerboard pattern on the tiles and in the arrangement of the chairs. In a nod to surrealism plaster moulds of torsos, busts, lips, eyes and even bird cages were artfully suspended from the ceiling. Cages and birds were a theme and women freeing themselves was one of the messages from the show.
The black and white theme extended to the clothes with the monochrome theme predominant throughout the show. Surrealists were said to dream in black and white and in this show Maria Grazia Chuiri paid homage to one of the great forgotten women of surrealism- the Italian – Argentine artist and ‘ it ‘ girl Leonor Fini.
Patches of red, the palest of greens, nude, pale pink and pale yellows popped up in some of the evening wear. The show was heavily evening based, with crisp suits being the other standout.
Many of the models had famous surreal quotes tattooed across their necks instead of necklaces. The words of Jean Cocteau – ‘ what’s important when we start out is not necessarily to understand but to love ‘ -was one such quote.
Many of the looks I would wear, especially the tailored suits in black and sharp white and the flowing red off the shoulder dress which would look a dream on any woman. Maria Grazia Chuiri has designed more of her nipple showing sheer dresses which can be worn by only the brave. I will interpret this in my wardrobe by continuing to wear sheer and lace blouses and dresses with a cami or slip underneath. The delicate fabrics showed off the skill of the ateliers and swathed the models beautifully.
What can we expect to be wearing based on this collection?
The show opened with beautifully tailored trenches in variations of black and white polka dots. I am a huge fan of spots so I was gasping with delight from the get go. This was followed by a range of exquisitely tailored suits before Maria Grazia Chuiri ‘s signature sheer evening dresses which we may see worn by stars like Jennifer Lawrence this awards season.
Many of the dresses gave a nod to the off the shoulder or one shoulder trend which has gone from strength to strength these past few years. Artistic surrealist patterns in black and white were fun and edgy and not too busy. Evening dresses abounded and I loved the shimmering light gold sequin gown which was fit for a princess.
Although predominately a black and white palette we will also be wearing some pastels and shimmer.
Beautiful theatrical capes were unforgettable featuring petals, feathers and butterflies. These were a nod to escapism and the bird theme so strong in this show. Capes add a beautiful dressy edge to any outfit so look out for these in the coming months. Do not throw out your pleats just yet -there were pleats and ruffled skirts aplenty.
I was disappointed not to see more bags and shoes. These are perhaps being saved for the ready -to -wear shows. Dior collaborated with British milliner – Stephen Jones – whose masks and elaborate headwear were eye catching. The eyes said it all with make up that was all about eyes with exaggerated eyeliner twirling around the model eyes teamed with long, long ‘ 60’s style lashes. Lips were the palest of pinks. Hair was sleek and slicked back with low ponytails.
All in all it was this show was fairly classic Dior with a strong and predominately monochrome collection from designer Maria Grazia Chuiri. I have to say I loved it and will be shopping my wardrobe to replicate some of the looks on display. It reiterated one of my favourite sayings that black and white will always be right.